Leadership Tips For An Expert

This is especially important for anyone who wished to become a regional coordinator for the ShieldWall Network and develop your own franchise.

I am a strong proponent of the United States Marine Corps Leadership Principles and Traits. I have multiple copies of this list and read it daily.

Although I strive to apply these to my daily leadership responsibilities, I have adapted these principles to my duties as a firearms instructor. I would like to share these, as well as some other principles and traits I have learned.


Before you step into the classroom or range, you must know yourself and seek improvement. What are your strengths and weaknesses? What are you doing to fix your weaknesses and build upon your strengths?

One great way to hold yourself accountable is to always provide and promptly review course critiques and evaluations. Of course, you can’t make everyone happy, but if you review class critiques with an open mind, you will learn instructional traits – both positive and negative – about yourself you didn’t know.


Leadership also starts well before the training. You must formulate solid lesson plans and courses of fire that are not only challenging and effective teaching techniques, but also address case law and agency expectations.

The majority of your time should be spent during the preparation phase. You must clearly articulate the learning goals and objectives of the training with the other instructors, as well as the methodology of instruction and your expectations.

Any and all lesson plans or materials should be disseminated to all involved instructors in advance of the training. This will help you earn credibility and respect from the other instructors by keeping them informed. Ask for feedback on your lesson plans well before training occurs. Make sure your vision of the training outcome has transferred over to the written word of your lesson plan.


Whatever you are teaching, you must know the lesson plan and how to perform those techniques upon demand. As an instructor you must be tactically and technically proficient.

If an instructor is repeatedly asked questions and does not have the answers, the students will go elsewhere to find their information and the uninformed instructor will develop a poor reputation. If you are not clear on the lesson plan, ask.

This not only goes for the facets of the Combat Triad of marksmanship, gun handling and combat mindset, but it holds true to instructor methodology, classroom and range management as well as administrative functions. As unromantic as the administrative tasks are, you must be proficient.


One failing that I have as a lead instructor is giving up control. I am very particular when it comes to my lesson plans and content and I have a specific plan in my head on how things will look. I need to learn that by giving up control, you actually gain control.

To develop responsibility among the assistant instructors, I ask which sections of the lesson plan they would like to be responsible for instructing. I usually ask instructors to teach something they need to develop more expertise. This forces them to know themselves and seek improvement.


From time to time you may need to make sound and timely decisions. These decisions could range from when to take a lunch break to the prioritization of the content, or when to remove an unsafe shooter from the range. Decisiveness on the range must be prompt, so make the decision. Improper judgment in regard to an unsafe shooter or even inclement weather could be devastating. Have the ability to weigh facts and possible solutions on which to base sound, informed decisions.


Setting the example is where we get the most traction. Appearance goes a long way and command presence does exist on the range and in the classroom. An instructor that shows up wearing a uniform that their cat slept on the night before will instantly lack credibility. Whereas the instructor that has a pressed and creased uniform with shined boots will develop a leader/follower relationship much faster than the “Soup Sandwich.” If you are instructing in an academy setting you should meet and exceed the academy uniform and appearance standards that the students must adhere to.


An instructor should also wear the same equipment as the students. This means duty gear and body armor, anything less is lazy and demonstrates an aura of entitlement. Wearing an off-duty rig when teaching students who are wearing duty gear can drive a wedge in the leader/follower relationship.

The students aren’t stupid and know that you will be faster with off-duty gear, and a student may challenge you on it. Don’t put yourself in the position where you would need to defend yourself. Wearing the same equipment in the same conditions as the students builds credibility.


The firearms instructor should also demonstrate the courses of fire. You must ensure that assigned tasks are understood, supervised and accomplished. Conducting demonstrations is better than telling the students. Students must truly understand what you are requesting of them.

Some instructors refuse to demo drills. They feel that if they don’t shoot well they will lose credibility.

As an assistant instructor at a fairly big name shooting school, I did so poorly demonstrating a specific course of fire that it still bothers me to this day. I was trying to go too fast and impress the students, but failed miserably. I lost a lot of credibility and respect from the other instructors and students. I lost the credibility because instead of seeking and taking responsibility for my actions, I gathered the pieces of shattered ego and slinked off the line. If I would have explained that I was trying too hard and shot it again, I may have been able to repair my credibility and ego.


When setting the example, you are never too important to do the menial tasks. You should be shagging ammo, setting up the range, hanging targets and most importantly, cleaning up brass. I hate it too, especially as I get older, but I don’t care if you didn’t fire a round. Setting the example means brassing with the troops. Getting dirty and then showing up the next day in a pristine uniform will also build respect.


A good instructor knows the nuances of every group of students. Every group has a specific “temperature.” Are you instructing an understaffed graveyard team that was working a late high-priority call or academy cadets who have a certain expectation of how they should be treated?

Conduct a little recon before class to help you adjust your teaching style. The lesson plans must stay the same, but the delivery should be altered to fully benefit the students.

Make sure you give the students sufficient breaks to warm up or cool down. I understand we should be training in poor environments, but sometimes you will figuratively lose the students or the conditions can become unsafe.


Do what you say you will do, both for students and other members of the instructor cadre. This means getting to the venue early and leaving late. Have the training venue fully prepared and ready to begin training at the scheduled start time. Range or classroom set up should never occur on student training time.


You must be unselfish and professional. As you know, there is a lot of arrogance and negative ego in this industry. There are instructors who think they are better than the students and the rest of the instructor cadre.

Being a firearms instructor is not about you. It is about the students. If at any time you think you are better than anyone else or hold yourself above the training mission and the students, you need to pack your stuff and get off my range.

Smart aleck remarks and speaking in movie quotes can create a positive learning environment as long as it stays professional. It is very easy to take a joke too far on the range. Keep it fun, but never degrading or demeaning, because you can lose a lot of students very quickly.


Be faithful to your agency philosophies and mission. Have faith in the lesson plans and the methodologies you are teaching. If you put down anyone or anything in your agency, it is unprofessional; you may lose the student’s respect.

Be loyal to the cause publically, even if you don’t agree with everything. If you don’t agree with your agency’s decision or direction, don’t complain about it. Be part of the solution and make positive changes that benefit everyone.


It takes a tremendous amount of courage to disqualify a member of the command staff or even a friend. If you don’t appropriately address those issues and others see or hear about it, you will lose integrity.

Courage can also mean staying late with a problem shooter so they don’t leave the range with a negative performance issue gnawing at them. It can also mean helping someone that you may have personal unfavorable feelings toward.


Working the range can be physically and mentally taxing. Have the mental and physical endurance to withstand the pain, stress and hardships of the range. After you check your students and other instructor’s welfare, make sure you check your own. Be sure you are snacking and drinking water. By satisfying your needs after your students, you help your endurance.


I also conduct an instructor debriefing after a training session and cover what the instructor cadre could improve upon, including me. If you are the lead instructor, surround yourself with assistant instructors that will call you out and hold you responsible.


I love to teach and I am very passionate about it. I believe my enthusiasm spreads to the students and other instructors. Physically exuding your excitement about the lesson plan and courses of fire has a contagious effect. So have fun out there, the majority of your students will follow your lead.


The biggest violation of initiative I see as a lead instructor is the assistants doing nothing. Standing behind your four shooters and not interacting with them is not teaching. Interact with them. There is usually something that can be done.


You should have a common practice for reward and punishments. Justice is administering those rewards and punishment in a tactful manner. I like to stop everything to acknowledge successes.

Punishments are different depending on your audience. At in-service, I speak to the individual alone, using tact. I am firm, fair and, most importantly, consistent. Things change at an academy level. I am still firm, fair and consistent, but the cadets pay the penance as a team. I will join them for minor infractions that are deserving of push-ups on the range.

I do not participate in disciplinary tasks at the academy level for major infractions. For the major infractions, we send them on runs. This is the opportunity for the cadet formal and informal leadership to take charge, and own their mistakes and develop a sense of responsibility. If the cadets do not own it, their peers will usually help them understand.


All of these traits and principles are inconvenient, because leadership is inconvenient. All of these principles and traits come from lessons learned. Some are from positive experiences, but more often they are from negative experiences. I did not say failure because as a leader you are either successful or you learn. Learn from your mistakes. See everything as an opportunity to learn.

If you habituate these 20 traits and principles, you should earn credibility and respect. Having the rapport and respect of your students will help you deliver the content much more effectively. In doing so, you allow your students to accomplish great things and that is the truest form of servant leadership.


Review: Kel-Tec Sub-2000

Looking for a dependable, carry-anywhere, pistol-caliber carbine (PCC) for backpacking or the homestead? Look no further than Kel-Tec and check out its Sub-2000.

From GandA. 

Arriving in a box, no larger than one of my kids’ old board games, the Sub-2000 Gen 2 was nestled in and folded up, not broken down. We’re used to getting “long” guns shipped in long, narrow, rectangular boxes. So, it took a few seconds to wrap my mind around a gun that folds into a 16-by-7-inch space.


Picking up the gun, it was definitely heavier than it looked. Not to say a 4¼-pound firearm is heavy, but the strategic use of polymer camouflaged its apparent heft and its performance capabilities.

Even the folding rear sight is synthetic. Which is fine with me, as I’d prefer to have the lightest back-up sight possible, as my plan from the start was to mount a miniature red dot sight. When the gun is folded, the front sight tucks into a recess in the stock and the rear sight is pushed flush with the top of the receiver.


To fold up the gun, you first pull down on the tabs located on the triggerguard that disengages the two halves. Then rotate the 16-inch, suppressor-ready threaded barrel assembly backwards until it is captured by a clasp located on the stock.

The gun comes with a crossbolt safety and a bolt retaining notch that has to be manually set. You’ll have to get used to the safety since it works opposite of most other guns. The magazine release is located on the left side much like on most pistols.


Each carbine comes with one, 15-round Magpul PMAG15 GL-9 magazine that corresponds to the variant you’re shooting. In our case, we had a model that took Glock 17 and 19 magazines. Kel-Tec also makes variants to take mags from the Smith & Wesson M&P, SIG Sauer P226, and the Beretta 92 and 96.

Meeting in the Middle

I practiced unhitching, unfolding and charging to see how fast I could get the Kel-Tec into action. While the pivot point is a bit stiff (who wants a floppy gun biting a finger or damaging itself), it was easy to overcome and told me with a reassuring loud click that everything was aligned. However, charging the firearm was a different story – it was a bear.


Putting on my designer hat, I could understand why it was so heavy. Coupled with the two-piece bolt assembly, they needed to be hefty to compensate for the pressures generated by the pistol-caliber cartridge in a small carbine. You can definitely hear and feel the strength of the spring as the bolt assembly travels forward.

However, this poses a drawback for shooters who may not have the upper-body strength to cycle the action. If the gun had a last-shot bolt hold open function, it would help, but the Sub-2000 doesn’t. You have to rack the action each time a new magazine is inserted.


It wasn’t until I got to the range for testing that a healthy dose of gun oil and 300 rounds downrange made everything loosen up for a more favorable relationship.

Performance Unveiled

I was thrilled with the gun’s accuracy with and without an Aimpoint Comp5 red dot attached. Of the six 9mm loads I had on hand, the Sub-2000 preferred the lighter Hornady 100-grain Critical Defense FTX Lite ammunition, turning in the day’s best 50-yard group of .56 inch. But the heavier 147-grain bullets in the Federal Personal Defense HST and SIG Sauer Elite V-Crown JHP offerings printed groups almost as small at .87 inch and .88 inch, respectively. The Federal load did edge out the Hornady load by .08 inch for best group average of 1.45 inches.


When finding the right load for the Sub-2000, remember bullet drop happens a lot faster than you think. If you were to zero using a 100-grain load at 50 yards, then switch to a 147-grain load without recalibrating the sight(s), you could be inches off from your original point of impact (POI). It’s understandable, heavy bullets traveling at slower velocities will drop sooner. Even from a 16-inch barrel, the average velocities for the 147-grain pistol loads were nowhere near the 1300+ feet per second (fps) set by the lighter bullets.

After our standard 50-yard group testing was done, I decided to see what the Sub-2000 would do at 100. Selecting the lighter SIG Sauer 115-grain JHPs and Hornady’s 100-grain FTX Lites, I shot 20 rounds of each at standard 100-yard rifle targets. Making sure the Aimpoint was zeroed at 50 yards, I began peppering the 8-inch black circles on the targets.


The carbine tallied 15 out of 20 shots in the black with the SIG Sauer ammo. Whereas, with the 100-grain Hornady Lites, it could only score 8 hits, with more scatter. This proves why you should not take your ammo choice for granted. While the 100-grainers were better at 50 yards, they fell behind as the distance doubled. So, test thoroughly.

After a day on the range, I would be very confident engaging targets out to 100 yards as long as I knew the holds for bullet drop. While the trigger pull was tested at just over 7 pounds, I was still able to turn in groups at 50 yards that average around 3½ inches from a sandbag rest with the iron sights. However, with the Aimpoint attached, it was almost surgical, engaging orange clays scattered over the range from 50 to 100 yards. And for the cherry on the top, it didn’t fail once. No, miss fires. No jams. Zippo. Very dependable.



Aside from the hefty recoil spring, the gun’s buttstock could stand a bit of rubber to make it less slick against clothing. I’d also look into getting a cheek pad to fit over the receiver tube and the buttstock to minimize the felt recoil to the face. Check out the Kel-Tec website and other aftermarket suppliers for these items and other additions to make your Sub-2000 special.

Load – 9mm Average Velocity (fps) SD ES Best Group (in.) Average Group Size (in.)
Hornady Critical Defense Lite 100-gr. FTX 1342 20 45 .56 1.53
Federal Personal Defense 147-gr. HST 1099 12 31 .87 1.45
SIG Sauer Elite V-Crown 147-gr. JHP 1076 12 33 .88 2.10
SIG Sauer Elite V-Crown 115-gr. JHP 1320 16 53 1.46 1.88
Federal Personal Def. Hydra-Shot 135-gr. JHP 1129 16 38 1.89 2.19
Hornady Critical Defense 115-gr. FTX 1307 20 56 2.06 2.38

Notes: Accuracy is the average of five, five-shot groups fired from a sandbag rest at 50 yards aided by an Aimpoint Comp5 red dot sight. Velocity results are the average of five shots measured by a LabRadar adjacent to the muzzle.



Kel-Tec Sub-2000

Type: Semiautomatic, blowback

Cartridge: 9mm

Magazine: 15 rds.

Overall Length: 30 in.

Barrel: 16 in.; 1:10 twist

Weight: 4.25 lbs.

Stock: Polymer

Grip: Polymer

Trigger: 7.4 lbs. (tested)

Finish: Black polymer, anodized matte-black nitrite (metal)

Sights: Fixed rear; adjustable front post (elevation and windage)

Muzzle Device: Suppressor ready

MSRP: $500

Manufacturer: Kel-Tec, 321-890-1850, keltecweapons.com

Read more: http://www.gunsandammo.com/rifles/review-kel-tec-sub-2000/#ixzz5LLHoRqMn

Molot Short-Barrel Shotgun – Get them before they’re gone!

The Molot shotguns and rifles are in limited stock due to the U.S. sanctions imposed some time ago. There are already a number of models that are out of stock, and there is no telling how much longer this short barrel shotgun will last.

This semi-auto short barrel shotgun with a folding stock is imported from the Molot factory in Russia. Vepr 12 shotguns are semi-automatic designed for self-defense, hunting, and 3-gun competitions. Based on the RPK standard, the Vepr 12 shares the same legendary characteristics of extreme reliability in harsh conditions as the RPK.

Folding Stock
Featuring a factory short barrel, Left-side folding tubular buttstock with cheek rest and sling loop, competition magazine well, one (each) factory 8-round and 5-round magazine included, RPK style windage adjustable rear sight, hinged dust cover with a Picatinny rail, original AK enhanced safety lever (single finger operation), factory chrome lined barrel, chamber, receiver shaft, and gas chamber, factory last round bolt hold open, factory threaded barrel, factory machined bolt assembly, and gas blocks. US factory made parts: polymer lower handguard and upper handguard, pistol grip, trigger, hammer, disconnector, and gas puck.
James Reeves reviews the SBS!
James Reeves from TFBTV had the opportunity to come and shoot the SBS for a video review. Check it out!



Taking a Dremel tool to a firearm is almost always frowned upon. And I agree.

However, butchering a holster might be entirely appropriate, depending on the reason. The other day I shared a story about how the extremely challenging Air Marshal Pistol Qualification test exposed some opportunities for gear improvement. The need for top speed leaves no room for even the slightest hang-up caused by equipment issues.

Well, that started a dangerous binge. No, I didn’t subject any firearms to Dremel abuse. However, I did complete some very minor and gentle performance modifications to an old Crossbreed SuperTuck Deluxe IWB holster. In other words, I hacked the crap out of it with scissors and power tools.

It doesn't look pretty, but it sure is functional.

Here’s why. This particular holster is for a Beretta PX4, and I’ve dug it out of the drawer-o-holsters to use with a Beretta PX4 Compact Carry 9mm pistol. It’s a smaller gun, so everything is a bit closer together. The grip is shorter, so it’s harder to get a perfect hold while the gun is holstered. If you don’t, you’ll have to tweak your grip while extracting, rotating, and raising the pistol. That’s a bad thing. What I found was that my fingers were being obstructed by the leather back panel and that my middle finger knuckle was jamming into part of the Kydex shell. That definitely fouls up any opportunity for a perfect draw.

Post surgery, both leather and Kydex were well out of the way of my normal grip.

Cut but don’t compromise holster safety

So, feeling industrious, I got some heavy-duty scissors and performed my own “combat cut” to remove leather from under the entire grip area. I then broke out the Dremel tool (gasp!) and ground out a rounded cut to make room for my middle finger. Hey, it’s not as bad as it sounds. I did take care to use the felt polishing wheel to smooth out my surgical cuts after shredding plastic with a sanding drum. By the way, the sanding drum, while not approved by the Leather Workers of America Guild, does a reasonable job of repairing rough scissor cuts on leather. Just sayin’.

Voila! This custom rig now allows a quick and smooth draw with absolutely no interference. The “combat cut” in the leather allows all fingers to go where they need to on the grip and my middle finger knuckle no longer jams into the Kydex shell. It doesn’t look pretty, but I figure it’s concealed anyway, so who cares?

All finished!

The moral of the story is simple. With the exception of pairing Dremel tools and firearms, don’t be afraid to tweak your gear if it will give you better function. Holsters, magazine carriers, belts, and even guns are simply tools. If some surgery (with professional gunsmith assistance for firearm work!) can make them perform better for your needs, then don’t worry about altering the shiny factory finish.


Tactical Red Dot Review: Aimpoint H2 and T2


The first manufacturer of red dot sights was Aimpoint. Today, Aimpoint remains at the top of the heap. Aimpoint’s red dots are proven in harsh conditions and combat the world over. They have been the mainstay for police agencies and professionals that appreciate a quality optic, and should be a top choice for you as well.

While not inexpensive, the Aimpoint costs less than some gear that is far less proven. The design is excellent, and it has a proven track record. While all Aimpoint gear is durable and useful, some are better suited than others to specific situations.

There are a number of red dot sights that I feel offer the most versatility. I think the two Micro sights, the T1 and H2, work best for most of us. Each is a good, durable sight with notable features. They are also suitable for use with a magnifier if need be.

Each has the red dot advantage of extreme speed and allowing the use of the red dot with both eyes open. An advantage of the new Aimpoint is also battery life. They will last for five years on a single battery. That is a great leap from early red dot sights and many that are still in use.

With 1x—that is one power or no magnification—the red dot is intended for the edge at very close range.

The H2 and T2 are both very compact and weigh but three ounces or so, making for a compact package. However, the H2 and T2 are both service grade. The T2 features several settings for compatibility with night vision optics.

The H2 is mounted on my personal AR-15 and a Wilson Combat AR9-9mm handgun. Picatinny or Weaver mount, either Aimpoint may be adapted to the specific firearm. When you order a Red Dot, be certain to specify whether you want a 2 or 4 MOA reticle. The choice is important, and you will need to think about how the sight will be used.

The H2 has 12 settings, but none for night vision use. That doesn’t matter at all to me, but the T2 will be choice for tactical operators. The T2 has less daylight settings but the night vision setting will be pretty important to some users. The T2 is also proofed for a wider variety of climatic conditions.

As for accuracy potential, I recently took the Wilson Combat AR9 to the range and fired over 200 rounds of Federal Syntech training ammunition—150 of the 115-grain and 50 of the 124-grain load. Accuracy was excellent at all ranges, with headshots being carried off at a long 100 yards. Firing from the bench rest firing position, and taking a careful aim, I placed five of the Federal Syntech rounds into less than one inch. This is an accurate AR-type pistol but the Aimpoint H2 Micro delivers the excellent accuracy.

If you are in a situation in which the sight cannot fail, and your life is worth the expense, then the Aimpoint Red Dot is for you.

Read more here…

Do you have a favorite red dot sight? Is it an Aimpoint? Share your answer in the comment section.

Do Your Kids Know these Survival Skills?


As a parent, it didn’t take me long to realize that I was different.

Like the other parents, I also realized that the world is full of dangers (and is quickly getting worse).

But, where all of the other parents were doing everything in their power to shield their kids from the dangers, I felt compelled to prepare my child.

In fact, I feel an obligation to make sure my child knows how to survive when SHTF.


Teaching Your Children the Survival Mentality – It is Never Too Early!

Survivalism isn’t about knowing a bunch of tricks (though that certainly helps). Survival readiness is a mentality.

And, while a 2-year old won’t be ready to light a fire or read a map, it is never too early to teach your kids the survivalist mentality.

It can be really challenging to teach your kids the survival mentality. It means telling them that bad things do happen, that there are bad people in the world, and that things aren’t as stable as they seem.

These are cruel life lessons. But, trust me, kids can handle it. And not telling them is much crueler because they will be unprepared when bad things do occur.

Aside from teaching my daughter specific survival skills, here are some of the things I do to teach her the survival mentality:

  • Take her out of her comfort zone: Whereas some parents never take their kids out of a 3-block radius of their homes, my daughter goes to all sorts of places. This includes the great outdoors, big cities, the metro, ethnic restaurants… By going to as many different places as possible, my daughter has learned to be comfortable and find herself in multiple settings, with multiple types of people.

Ask her what she thinks should be done to solve problems: I want to encourage critical thinking skills in my daughter. If I am always telling her what to do, then she isn’t going to learn to think for herself. So, when a problem arises, I ask her what we should do. Even at 5, she was able to make decisions like whether we should wait for the next bus or walk. These aren’t life-or-death decisions, but they do build the survival mentality.

  • Letting her explore, fall, and sometimes get hurt: As a parent, it is really hard to watch your child get hurt. But this is how we learn important life lessons. For example, there is one mom at the park who never lets her kid climb on the playground equipment because she is too worried that he will fall and get hurt. As a result of being coddled, the kid is one of the most uncoordinated 5 year olds I’ve ever seen. Yes, he could fall. But the chances of him dying or getting seriously injured are practically zero. So, before you tell your kid not to run, jump, climb, etc. out of fear that he/she might get hurt, think of the bigger picture instead!

8 Survival Skills Your Kids Need to Know NOW

How to Build a Fire

When my daughter was 3, I taught her how to make a safe fire pit by surrounding it by rocks (and to be careful lifting the rocks when in snake country!), and how to make the “tee pee” out of sticks.

When she turned 5, I let her light the fire – with supervision, of course! If she is ever lost in the wilderness, she will be able to stay warm, keep wild animals away, and signal for help with the fire.

How to Read a Map

Do you know about the sport Orienteering? It is a race where you have to use a map and a compass to get to certain points in the fastest amount of time. My dad took me Orienteering when I was a kid. I think I was about 6 when we started, and was running through the woods by myself when I was 7.

Start by taking your kids out the first few times. LET THEM GET LOST! Then let them find their way back again. Once they are versed in map reading, you can let them go out on their own.

You can find a local Orienteering club at their website here.


What to Do If They Get Lost

Make a safety plan and go over it with your kids! Otherwise, they will likely panic when they get lost and it could lead to disastrous outcomes. Here is what they need to know:

  • When lost in the wilderness: Stay put! Do not go anywhere unless you have a specific reason to do so (like recognizing a landmark or going to a water source). The more they wander in hopes of finding their way back, the more lost they are likely to get.
  • When lost in public places: Stop and observe! Often, the parents are just a few yards away. If the kids immediately panic and start running around looking for you, they will likely just get more lost. If they cannot find you within a few minutes of waiting, they should seek out an adult. First look for police officers. If none are around, then they should (ideally) approach a woman with children and ask for help.


What to Do During a Home Invasion

This is every parent’s worst nightmare – and a nightmare which unfortunately happens quite frequently. I recommend that you make a home invasion plan and run test drills with your children.

In the ideal situation, your children will sleep on the same floor as you (such as everyone being on the second floor). Then, if you suspect an intruder is on the first floor or outside, you could gather everyone in your “safe” room and call 911.

If you are unable to gather everyone in a safe room, then you need to have a code word or other signal which can be used from across the home. At the signal, the children should know to HIDE and not come out.

Recommended Reading – Bulletproof Home Defense: Tactics You Can Enact Now to Secure Your Safety

How to Find Drinkable Water

If your children ever get lost in the wilderness, they can go without food for weeks – but they will need water if they are going to survive. The problem is that most natural water sources are contaminated. This could lead to diarrhea, which in turn could lead to dehydration and death.

As soon as your children master the art of making a fire, you can teach them how to boil water to purify it.

But, there is a chance that your kids aren’t going to have a pot for boiling water if they ever get lost in the wilderness or are in a similar survival situation.

Teach them how to locate the safest sources of water – such as to drink water from the moving parts of streams and not from stagnant areas.

Also teach them tricks like using a piece of cloth to absorb dew and moisture from plants, and then wringing it out into a bottle or directly into their mouths.


To SCREAM, kick and fight!

If you ever go to a self-defense class, one of the first things you are going to learn and practice is screaming. The same applies to many martial arts.

Unfortunately, most people don’t send their kids to self-defense classes. Instead, we train our kids to be quiet, obedient, and listen to our elders.

So if your kids are in a threatening situation (being attacked, raped, kidnapped…), they might freeze up and become passive.

This is NOT what we want them to do.

As Safe Women and Girls points out,

“the biggest obstacle that most survivors report is the ‘fight, flight or freeze’ response to trauma. Many women report that they didn’t realize what was happening until it was too late and then they were in such shock they were unable to think clearly or act in the way they would have thought they should.”

Teach your kids to SCREAM if they feel they are in a threatening situation.

If screaming doesn’t save them, they should fight back with everything they have!

Fighting back (no matter how seemingly hopeless because the attacker is bigger, stronger) could earn them a few extra seconds, during which time someone notices the struggle and is able to help.

Go ahead and get your kids into martial arts classes so they can practice this.

Recommended Reading – Essential Guide To Self Defense

How many of these survival skills do your kids know?  Are you preparing your kids for survival?  Let us know in the comments.

From Primal Survivor.

EDC Essentials

EDC, or everyday carry, is one of the most important aspects of the prepper way of life. After all, it is a key component to the “hope for the best, prepare for the worst” mentality. Even in your day to day life, you will encounter certain situations from time to time that requires simple tools – having these on hand, ready to use at a moment’s notice can make a big difference. You might even save someone’s life.

There are different levels of EDC, depending on what you do for a living and where you live. While a first responder may always have a comprehensive medical kit easily accessible at all times, you may find that your lifestyle allows for a bare minimum EDC configuration. We’ll cover exactly that; the bare minimum every day carry.

Why EDC?

The concept of everyday carry captures the entire philosophy of prepping in general and brings it to everyday life. The implications of doing so benefit the prepper in practical ways, for sure: having the tools on hand to deal with emergency situations, however big or small, is important. There are also mental benefits of doing so. Every day, as you gather your EDC tools and begin your day, you feel more of a sense of preparedness, which is a highly useful and satisfying attitude to have.

EDC can look very different for everyone, based on a number of factors. Where you live, what you’re prepping for, and even certain conditions you might have can affect what you carry with you each day. For example, someone with asthma will surely find that an inhaler is an essential component of their EDC kit. For others, this would extraneous.

That said, certain items are agreed upon as essentials for EDC no matter who you are or where you live. There a few things to keep in mind when choosing EDC items:

  • Size – You’ll want to look for something that is big enough to get the job done, yet small enough to fit on your person without being bulky. (A lot of this depends on your height and weight. Someone who is over 6 feet will probably have an easier time lugging around a full-size pistol on their hip than someone who is 5’5”.)
  • Weight – It is important to keep the weight down to an amount that won’t be cumbersome after extended periods of carrying. (Particularly important for lighter everyday carriers.)
  • Durability – Make sure to filter out low-quality items, as they tend to disappoint when you need them most. (Such items as a poorly made knife can end up causing a grievous injury.)
  • Ergonomic – Keep in mind how things fit and feel in your hands. You’ll want to be able to have a firm, yet comfortable, grip. This particularly important for items that you expect to be used over an extended period of time since don’t want your hands to start cramping up from discomfort.
  • Satisfaction – This is a key factor since a specific item could be the right size and weight, have good durability and ergonomics and still be to your disliking for whatever reason. If that ends up being the case, you’ll be less likely to carry it with you every day – and that completely defeats the purpose.

Should I Purchase A Ready Made EDC Kit?

As you’re probably aware, there’s been a definite increase in awareness about disaster planning and preparedness in general over recent years. This is a good thing but comes with some interesting developments – one of which is some companies capitalizing on the trend in ways that really aren’t beneficial. One of these is the manufacturing of ready-made kits that are of little value to the prepper.

Kits like these pop up in all areas of prepping: food storage, medical supplies, and yes: EDC. While not already made kits are necessarily bad, the vast majority of the time it is more worthy of your time and money to assemble supplies yourself.

The problems with ready-made kits of all kinds are pretty consistent:

  • Substandard quality of tools and supplies
  • Incomplete items – you’ll often find too many of the less useful items and not enough or any of the more valuable ones
  • Inflated price – you pay for the convenience of having everything together and lose the quality you could get by assembling items yourself
  • Lack of knowledge – you learn more about how to use items when you do the research and shopping yourself. Don’t underestimate the importance of this!

Folding Knife: A good folding knife will come in handy, no matter what your usual daily activities are. A handy box opener when necessary as well as the perfect pry bar for stuff that requires more leverage than a fingernail; these easily concealed knives are generally the first thing that beginner EDCers set their sights on. Let’s not forget they provide a viable defense option in a pinch.

Look for blade lengths ranging anywhere from 2.5” to 3.5”. You can spend a lot of time learning about all the different types of steel available, but you mainly want something that is corrosion resistant, has good edge retention, has working hardness, and is wear resistant. A good knife can cost anything from $30 to $150, anything more had better be a collector’s piece.

Here’s a short list of some common quality steel: 154cm, VG-10, CPM D-2, 440 XH, S30V, ELMAX, M390, and ZDP 189.

If you’re not sure about which brands to check out, try these first: Benchmade, Spyderco, Al Mar, Victorinox, SOG, and Kershaw.

Multi-tool: Multi-tools can be a lifesaver in any number of situations. Jampacked with various tools that you find yourself in need of on a daily basis, they tend to be the most used item in your EDC setup. When it comes to choosing one, Leatherman and Gerber rule the industry. These two brands will provide a wide variety of configurations suitable for any type of person. Common prices for a solid multi-tool will be $50 to $150. Gerber and Leatherman both have specialty multi-tools for military and law enforcement that tend to run a bit higher price wise.

A few you may wish to check out first are: Leatherman Wave, Leatherman Juice S2, and the Gerber Diesel.

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Flashlight: Having a good flashlight is a must. A large number of everyday carriers will find themselves using their flashlight for tedious chores, such as trying to see where they dropped their keys in the dark, making a flashlight a very convenient sidekick. The reason these are essential, though, is because of their signaling capabilities and not so much because we tend to drop things.

You’ll want something that has multiple setting, such as a low setting with about 5-10 lumens and lots of battery life, for when you’ll be using it for extended periods of time (power outage). The high setting should be able to last at least 2 hours and is recommended that it be around 100 to 200 lumens. Many come with special settings such as a strobe or SOS which can be immensely helpful for extreme scenarios, though it would be wise for you to learn how to signal SOS regardless. (It’s extremely simple)

Sidearm: No one wants to have to use a gun unexpectedly, but then again, no one wants to be caught without one either. Unfortunately, in today’s society, it is becoming increasingly harder to own firearms, let alone get the ammunition to practice with them. However, not only is it important to be able to exercise your rights but also to protect you and your loved ones in case of an emergency. A sidearm is the least used item in your EDC, and with any luck it will never be used outside of practice.

When it comes to choosing one to carry everyday, it is largely up to personal preference. It is recommended that you do no go for a caliber any smaller than a 9mm. Generally, most people are going to choose between a 9mm, 40 S&W, or a 45 ACP. A 45 ACP will pack a larger punch but will limit your magazine capacity. So, for the most part, you’ll be choosing between power and the number of rounds you’ll be able to carry. No matter what you choose, get in lots of practice with it.

Check out these brands, if you don’t know where to start: Beretta, Springfield Armory, Ruger, Sig Sauer, Smith & Wesson, and Kimber.

Bag: While many people would not think of a bag as being essential to you everyday carry setup, you may find that having one with you can provide a certain amount of convenience. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a large backpack or messenger bag, a fanny pack will do just as well in most cases. The idea is to allow for a carrying system that gives you the ability to take other items that are essential to your specific needs. Many people will have basic first aid things with them (band-aids, gauze, ibuprofen) as well as other random tidbits.

When deciding on an EDC bag, it is not necessary to go with something fancy. In fact, most bags that are labeled “EDC bag” are actually a bulky, over-the-top, military assault packs. The camo colors on a bag you carry everywhere isn’t going to do much to keep you concealed, that goes for the O.D. green and tan (classic military camo is still camo). Don’t go for anything that has exterior MOLLE webbing, it’s just another thing that will attract attention and make people think they should follow you around if something goes wrong. It should be the same mentality as a bug out bag, you DON’T want people to know you came prepared. Check out 5.11 Tactical’s COVERT line of bags to get a better idea of what to look for in an EDC bag.

Some good brands are: 5.11 Tactical, Condor, Blackhawk, and Maxpedition.

Miscellaneous – As well as the basics listed above, there are a few other items that you’ll want to consider adding to your EDC layout:

  • Band-aids – dress minor wounds, prevent infection
  • Ibuprofen – reduce inflammation from wounds and injuries
  • Gauze – use for various first aid needs
  • Tweezers – endless uses: you’ll be surprised at how often you can use tweezers when you have it on you
  • Nail clippers – besides the obvious, use for cutting small items and first aid
  • Spare knife – handy for situations when you don’t want to dull your “good knife.”
  • Pen, notebook/notepad – obvious uses for recording data and/or sending messages
  • Paracord – a sturdy enough rope for many emergency needs, a length of paracord could be handy. You’ve probably seen bracelets made from paracord around: many of these can be unraveled to up to 20 feet.

You’ll also know personally what types of items you would need that would benefit you on a day to day basis.

The Difference EDC Makes

What makes EDC such an essential part of preparedness is the fact that it’s one of the most likely components of your prepping to be put to use in day to day life. Not convinced? Consider the following scenario:

You’re driving home at around midnight, getting back from whatever keeps you out that late. Barely any other drivers on the road. You come up to a bridge and you see a driver coming from the other direction. No big deal, but you notice that he still has his brights on and is within a hundred yards and closing, not very courteous of him. Oh well, it happens. You flash your brights at him a couple of times, but he seems not to notice or care. As you two are within seconds of passing each other, he drifts over into your lane.

You have a split second to make a decision; slam on the brakes or swerve. Either way, you’re SOL. So you swerve out of the way, directly into the barrier, over the barrier, and for a split second, you feel as light as feather before crashing into the water below. Now you’ve just gone from one bad situation directly into another; out of the frying pan and into the fire. You have a limited amount of time before your car is completely submerged and the cabin is filling with water fast. you move to undo your seatbelt but it’s jammed.

Luckily, you have your multi-tool on you, which has a saw blade. You quickly pull it out of its holster and get to work, simultaneously fighting off your nerves. After what feels like a lifetime, the seat belt is off. A rush of relief washes over you as reach to open your door only to find that pressure build-up from your submerging vehicle is too much for you to get the door to budge. Your nerves are screaming louder than ever as you find that you’re waist deep in cold water. You realize that your pocket knife has a pommel on it that might just be enough to break your window. You grab it, take a firm grip, and, while covering your face, swing as hard as you can. In the blink of an eye, you’re blasted with shivering cold water.

Wasting no time, you pull yourself out the window and float up to the surface. Gasping for breath, you swim to the shore and drag yourself onto dry land. Relieved to be alive, you stand up only to fall over. You seem to be quite a bit dizzy as well as exhausted. Instead of trying to stand again, you crawl up to the shoulder of the road. Taking a look around, you only see faint headlights in the distance, on a nearby interstate. The guy that ran you off the road probably didn’t even take a second glance behind as you swerved out of his way; he was most likely drunk or high. A little shaky from exhaustion, you rest your back up against the edge of the barrier and pull out your flashlight. Setting it on high mode, you start flashing 180 lumens in an SOS pattern directly at the faint headlights. After about 15 minutes of doing so, you see emergency lives heading towards you. With a sigh of relief, you stop flashing SOS and just leave it on a steady beam pointing in front of you.

Now, imagine the same scenario without any of your EDC items on hand – not quite as happy an ending, is it?


So, where are you going to put it all? Having a bag gives the option of consolidating much of it into the different pockets and compartments, which is great for the miscellaneous items and random tidbits but refrain from putting the more basic items in your bag. You’ll still want to be able to have easy access to your gun, knife, multi-tool, and flashlight instead of them becoming mixed up into a pile in your bag. The exception to this is that some of the high-end EDC bags will have specific slots for those items.

Commonly, people with have a quality gun belt to use for carrying their gun, multi-tool, and flashlight while their knife is clipped into their pocket. Galco Leather has superb belts when it comes to quality. In most cases, multi-tools and flashlights will come with quality holsters already. The same is not true for firearms, they are notorious for coming with no holster or a joke of a holster. Avoid buying the generic holsters you see at local gun stores as they are not made for any specific gun and you’d be just as well off sticking your gun in your pocket (which you should never do). Instead, shop around online and make sure that you get a holster that is made specifically for your model of gun.

EDC Bag vs. Bug Out Bag – What’s The Difference?

Don’t confuse having an EDC bag with the tools you’ll keep with you each day with having a bug out bag – a bag of supplies that you’ll need should disaster strike and you’re forced to evacuate, flee, or otherwise “bug out.” While the differences between the two are many, a few of the most obvious ones include:

  • Food. Unless you’re a diabetic or have other types of blood sugar issues, you won’t likely need food in your EDC bag. Food definitely has its place in a bug out bag, however: a 3-day supply is commonly advised.
  • Shelter. It’s a good idea to carry a tarp or even a small tent in your bug out bag, this would be extraneous as part of an EDC kit.
  • Essential, non-everyday items: the bottom line is there are a lot of essential items you’d need in a bug out situation that would just be too much weight to carry every day.

You might find that you think certain items have their place in your EDC layout and find later that you’ve been carrying them around for weeks and that maybe you misjudged their value. There’s nothing wrong with reevaluating your EDC items from time to time – in fact, it’s smart to do so. Virtually no one will assemble the perfect array of tools the first time, and even if you are lucky enough to be one of those people, needs do change over time!

As you can see, EDC is a great place to start with your preparedness efforts. Think about the day-to-day and begin with the threats and risks closest to you.

Always watching out for you,

Sterling Mason

Tactical Pistol Refresher

Pictured: ShieldWall Network Coordinator Billy Roper exhibits his BUG (back up gun) for everyday concealed carry (ECC) usage. 

A difference exists between typical Bullseye marksmanship and tactical shooting. However, the fundamentals remain the same. How we apply them is where we see a division.

Bullseye shooting, or a focus on marksmanship, is typically accomplished on a clear, flat range with a small bullseye-style target set at a specific distance, such as the NRA B8 25-yard target featuring a 5½-inch bullseye. The shooter ensures their upright, Weaver-style, semi-bladed stance is perfect, and a natural point of aim with the target is obtained. Their firearm is presented in a methodical manner, and they take the time to ensure the sights are perfectly aligned. The trigger is slowly squeezed rearward as the shooter’s vision bounces back and forth between their sights and the target, making minute changes to their sight alignment and point of aim prior to the shot. When the shot goes off, the shooter prefers to be surprised. This minimizes any chance of anticipation or flinch, which could disturb their sight alignment. Bulls-eye shooters generally rely on an outside-the-waistband (OWB) holster and are not concerned with concealability or cover garments. They also typically reload while at the shooting bench.

The tactical shooter, on the other hand, chooses an athletic, forward-leaning, Modern Isosceles stance that allows them to aggressively shoot and move in a 360-degree environment without changing their shooting style. The tactical shooter relies on an acceptable sight picture given the distance to their intended target and engages that target with multiple rounds in a quick and efficient manner. The tactical shooter’s “bullseye,” if you will, closely resembles an 8-inch circle of an IDPA silhouette target or the 6-inch-wide by 14-inch-long A-zone of an IPSC or other humanoid target. Tactical shooters tend to shoot from concealment or from duty-style rigs and work on obtaining a full firing grip from the draw. They rely on a fast yet efficient draw stroke. Speed reloading their firearm is an important and practiced skill for the tactical shooter.

The following 11 tips will help you become a more skillful tactical shooter:

A good, forward-leaning, athletic stance is the foundation of consistent shooting. Your feet should be positioned approximately shoulder-width apart, with your non-firing foot a half step forward of your firing foot. For right-handed shooters, that means your left foot is forward of your right. Your upper body should be forward enough for you to feel the weight over your toes and balls of your feet, and your knees should be slightly bent. Ensure your upper body remains erect, and your forward lean is accomplished with your lower body and knees. You shouldn’t be bending at the waist when distributing your weight forward.

Clear your clothing
IWB—When the decision is made to draw, both of your hands should be working together to clear your cover garment if your pistol is concealed. If carrying on or behind the hip, use your support hand to lift your garment in an upward motion, and use your firing hand to begin sweeping your clothing in a rearward movement, completely exposing your holstered firearm. Don’t let go with your support hand.

AIWB—If carrying appendix inside the waistband (AIWB), use your support hand to grasp a handful of your cover garment and aggressively pull upward toward your sternum (the higher the better). Place your firing hand on your pistol grip.

OWB—If carrying outside the waistband (OWB) without a cover garment, move your support hand toward your upper chest while simultaneously swinging your strong hand rearward toward your exposed pistol, elbow facing the sky. Place your strong hand on the grip of your pistol.

Full firing grip on the draw
Wrap your strong hand as high on the grip of your handgun as possible, with no space between the web of your hand and the tang of the pistol, and obtain a full-firing grip. A full-firing grip is when your hand is positioned in such a way that it does not require any additional movement or fine-tuning once the gun is drawn. The grip should resemble a firm handshake when folding your fingers around the front strap of the pistol.

Draw, or remove your pistol from its holster, in an upward motion. Once it clears the holster body, rotate the grip of the pistol downward, leveling your barrel horizontally in the direction of the target. Begin pushing the pistol upward and toward the target like it’s riding on an escalator, not up toward your chest like an elevator. Release your support-hand grip on your clothing and allow it to meet with your pistol once it appears in your lower peripheral vision, and drive both toward the target.

Solid support hand grip
The key to shooting multiple rounds as fast and accurately as possible is an efficient support-hand grip. To obtain this, extend both arms toward your target and make a finger gun with your support hand. Point your support-hand finger gun at a 45-degree angle toward the ground. Open your support hand and use it as a clamshell, wrapping it around your firing-hand grip on the pistol; ensure that you do not change the angle of your support hand. The heel of your support hand should cover the exposed portion of your pistol grip, and your fingers should be as high beneath the trigger guard as possible. Your support-hand thumb should be pointed at the target, and your wrist should be nearly locked, relying on bone support instead of your tendons. This is your support-hand grip.

See your sights
If you’re able to attain full extension (i.e., your arms fully extended in front of you with your pistol pointed toward the target), your sights should be utilized. Always. When an efficient support-hand grip is obtained as outlined above, the muzzle of your pistol will not flip up vertically but will recoil rearward. This equates to your sights traveling on a horizontal plane, which your eyes can track as they move throughout the cycle of operation. During rapid-fire strings, your sights will consistently return to the position they were prior to the previous shot being fired, allowing for quick and accurate follow-up shots.

Move toward cover
When in an active shooting environment, it is always a good idea to practice moving toward solid cover. Cover will not only offer some level of concealment, but it will also stop bullets. Good examples of this are concrete or brick walls, larger trees and engine compartments of vehicles. When at the range, time should be allotted to practice shooting accurately on the move, both forward and laterally toward cover. Time should also be spent shooting from behind said cover in standing, crouching and kneeling positions, paying careful attention to minimize how much of your body is exposed when engaging targets.

Carry a reload
Always carry a spare. Extra bullets on-hand are only one of the benefits of carrying a reload. Most malfunctions can be tracked back to faulty magazines. A quick remedy to this is out with the bad, in with the good. Get that malfunctioning magazine out and get a fresh one in, and your functioning problems will likely be solved.

Index your magazine
A good rule of thumb is to carry your magazine(s) on your weak side and ensure the bullets are facing your belt buckle when positioned in a belt-mounted magazine pouch or pocket holster.

When it comes time to perform a reload, drop your support-hand palm onto the baseplate of your spare magazine. Extend your index finger along the front of the magazine as you draw it upward and out of its pouch. Whenever possible, the tip of your index finger should contact the exposed bullet at the top of the magazine.

Everyone can point at objects with an extended index finger, and we do so every day. This orientation allows you to point your finger, and subsequently your magazine, in the direction that it needs to go — into the magazine well. This should be so ingrained that it can be accomplished in all lighting conditions.

Cant your pistol
When it comes time to reload your handgun, pull it into your workspace, which is the area in front of your face. When retracting your pistol into this zone, your firing hand elbow should contact your lower ribcage and your elbow should be bent as if you’re at the apex of a bicep curl. You should be able to view your target through the trigger guard of your pistol, and the magazine well will be pointed toward your left pants pocket. In this position, the mag well will be open to accepting your reload.

Press the magazine into the grip until it stops. With upward pressure on the magazine, utilize your firing hand thumb to sweep the slide release downward to close the slide and chamber a fresh round. If your firing-hand thumb is not strong enough or long enough to complete this action, utilize your support-hand thumb to depress the slide release. These two methods are the quickest, most efficient techniques to reload your pistol.

Be efficient in your movement
Move in straight lines from Point A to Point B. Excessive movement is wasted time and motion. When your pistol clears the holster, it should be riding an escalator toward your target until it meets your line of sight, not being brought up to your chest and then forward in an L-shaped arch. The same is true with your reload: Your magazine should be correctly oriented to the left of your center line, bullets facing your belt buckle (for right-handed shooters), and follow a straight line out of your magazine pouch or pocket and into the mag well of your pistol grip.

Be sure of your target and what’s beyond it
You’re responsible for each and every round fired. Quickly make the determination to shoot or not. If the decision is to shoot, be aware of what is behind and to the sides of your target.

Read more: http://www.gunsandammo.com/shoot101/11-tips-for-tactical-pistol-shooting/#ixzz5K7z3BIJh

Are You Prepared For WW3 or Nuclear Strike?

How to survive nuclear war…

How prepared do you feel?

The topic of survival in a radioactive environment is a very broad one. You need to know how to shield yourself, how long to stay inside, when to eat and drink and how to hunt and eat animals safely after the blast. Here are a few basics to remember:

  1. A nuclear blast, leak or other event cause 2 types of radiation effects: initial and residual. You need to know how to reduce your exposure to minimize both effects. Initial radiation is radiation that occurs between the time of the explosion and 1 minute from the time of the explosion. During that short minute, the most intense gamma rays are produced by the explosion and they usually cause fatal exposure.
  2. If there is a nuclear blast, you may be injured by the blast itself, thermal radiation and nuclear radiation (including nuclear fallout). If you are too close to the blast, you are unlikely to survive due to the direct injury from the explosion or due to receiving a fatal dose of radiation, so hopefully, you have protected yourself by not living in large urban centers or close to nuclear power plants. Other injuries can be avoided or minimized by hiding in the shelter, shielding, washing and first aid.
  3. When talking about explosions, we can name 3 kinds of nuclear bursts: subsurface burst, surface burst, and air burst. Each of these has very different effects and therefore your chances of survival and actions you take under each circumstance vary. Learn about surviving each type of burst.
  4. Shielding is the easiest and best protection against penetrating radiation in a survival situation. When shielding, keep in mind the half-value thickness rule: if a shelter of prescribed thickness reduces the radiation by 50%, adding another layer of the same thickness will reduce the remaining radiation by 50%. For example, if 9 inches of wood reduce radiation by 50%; this means that adding another 9 inches of wood reduces the remaining 50% of radiation by another 50%. Essentially, this means that 19 inches of wood will reduce the original radiation by 75% and your exposure will be limited to 25%.
  5. Other very effective protective measures against penetrating radiation are time and distance. A couple things you need to know about time. First of all, radiation effects are cumulative and the longer you stay in the radioactive environment, the more it will affect you. Secondly, the longer the time from the initial nuclear event, the less radiation remains in the area. The general rule concerning distance is that radiation intensity decreases by the square of the distance from the source.
  6. Radiation exposure alters your blood chemistry and makes you susceptible to infection. Make sure you wash all wounds and burns to rinse off radioactive particles (even washing with contaminated water is better than not washing at all) and cover wounds properly. Do your best to practice good hygiene and prevent colds and flu.
  7. If you are sick to your stomach, it is likely from radiation sickness and there is no treatment for that. However, you should get better with rest, fluids and food.

These are just a few facts about surviving the initial few hours. Your life after the blast is a whole other story.

Will you be ready? One little item you can add to your EDC and bug out bags is goggles. They will protect you from particles entering through your eyes.

Always watching out for you,

Sterling Mason

Five Best Concealed Carry Revolvers

Manasquan, NJ –-(Ammoland.com)- I love revolvers as they are a tried and true design, simple to use and easy to maintain, with just enough capacity and caliber to get the job done.

As a firearms instructor I am asked all the time by my students, “What is the best concealed carry revolvers?”

My top five picks for the best concealed carry revolvers for reliable self defense include the five following wheelguns:

  • Ruger SP101 357 Mag, 2.25″ Revolver
  • Smith & Wesson 642 Handgun 38 Special Revolver
  • Ruger LCR-LG 38 Spl+P Revolver with Crimson Trace Lasergrips
  • S&W M&P 340 Revolver
  • Taurus Judge Public Defender Polymer Revolver

Ruger SP101 357 Mag, 2.25″ Revolver:

The Ruger SP101 357 Mag, 2.25″ Revolver fitted with the Crimson Trace LG-111 Defender Series Lasergrips are designed to put the shooter on target quickly and accurately. The Ruger SP101 has a spurless hammer for a snag free carry and draw, features 2.25 inch barrel and fixed sights. These 5-shot stainless steel revolvers are chambered for .357 Magnum and can also fire .38 Special ammunition, including .38+P cartridges.

The Crimson Trace LG-111 Defender Series Lasergrips are constructed of hard durable polymer. The red beam laser is activated by a pressure switch located on the front of the grip, making it instinctively usable for right- or left-handed shooters. The laser is adjustable for windage and elevation using an Allen wrench (provided).You Can Never Be Too Prepared. The SP101 revolver boasts the strength to handle the powerful .357 Magnum and .327 Federal Magnum cartridges in a controllable, small-framed double-action revolver. Among the most powerful small-frame revolvers on the market, they are engineered for solid performance. Featuring a recoil-reducing grip, the SP101 is comfortable to shoot and perfect for personal defense or field use.Strong and reliable shot after shot, all SP101 revolvers boast solid steel sidewalls (no side-plates), making them rugged, reliable, and dependable.

Available in .327 Federal Magnum, .38 Special and .357 Magnum (which also accepts the less expensive .38 Special cartridges), you can count on the SP101 when you need it.


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source: https://www.ammoland.com/2012/10/best-concealed-carry-revolvers/#axzz4moeKSl3V